Unfortunately the swell was less than epic. Short period NW with onshores all day after the morning. We did get a little dumpy right to ourselves for a couple hours the first day. The rest was jumping in, drifting a kilometre down the beach hoping to pick off a couple wind affected gems in the rough wild seas.
This is a tough thing with surfing. The success and enjoyment of so many trips weighs heavily in the balance of getting waves. So what happens if you don't? We've all driven thousands of kilometres in our lifetimes to turn up at a shitty wave and go home disappointed. There's no doubt it sucks. I was bummed when we didn't get the waves I wanted in Mex of course. It caused a little revelation though that has applied to many aspects of my life.
So much of our happiness is dictated by expectation. When what we expect doesn't come to pass it brings us down. That doesn't mean though that what has come to pass is bad. Sitting around the fire with empty beach as far as I could see in either direction I realized that I spent valuable time in paradise bummed about the waves. Meanwhile if I just focused more on what is actually happening (in lieu of waves) I'd see that, damn, this ain't so bad.
I've passed this thought through many parts of my life in the last few days - business, relationships, future plans. I wouldn't say I'm lowering expectations but maybe focusing less on expecting and more on whats cracking right now.
That's deep enough... Enjoy a short funny vid of what is basically our day to day just in Mexico. Oh and yeah that face-plant on the best wave of the weekend was super fun. Big thanks to the crazy talented Miah for putting together the rad clip, you can follow him and all his epic work here.